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2018年4月4日,星期三

针织面料缝纫初学者指南-博客之旅

今天是我在 针织面料缝纫初学者指南 博客之旅。这是 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward) latest book 和 the perfect starting point if you're wanting to branch out 和 start sewing with knits. The book includes full sized paper patterns for six core garments (T-shirt, Wide Leg Trousers, Tank, Lounge Pants, Cardigan 和 Skirt) with a variety of hacks to give a choice of twenty different variations. 


这本书的布局与Wendy的第一本书相似 A Beginner's裙子制作指南 (已审核 这里)。对于每个项目,都有详尽的分步说明,其中有清晰的图表,并在综合的“技术”部分中提供了解决特定技术的方法(添加颈带,卷边,使用松紧带等)。这些技术在每个项目的开始都已提到,建议您在开始之前先阅读这些技术。实际上,在执行任何操作之前,我强烈建议您阅读第9页的“如何使用这本书”部分,因为它列出了充分利用本书所需要了解的一切。 


The patterns are printed on both sides of each sheet 和 overlap, so you will need to trace them. Also, some larger pieces (such as trouser legs) may be printed in two halves, so make sure you know where the two halves are! A helpful guide showing which projects 和 pattern pieces are printed on each sheet can be found on page 23. One thing I found slightly annoying is that there are no sizes i.e. size 数字 印在图案上,只是不同的图案 标记 每个尺寸。如果您对与尺寸有关的标记感到困惑(就像我以前一样),则该书的内页背面有一个钥匙。

Sizes range from US size 4 (UK 8) to US 22 (UK 26) 和 the garments are sized depending on which area of the body the garment will fit most closely. The two trouser patterns are sized on hip measurements, the cardigan, T-shirt 和 tank are sized on bust measurements 和 the skirt is based on waist measurement. Just make sure you're working from the correct area of the body before you start.


我必须说老实话,其中一些图案并不是我真正的风格,尤其是长裙。 T恤和背心与我以前做过很多次的设计相似,而阔腿裤没有吸引力。因此,这是在别致的多功能Kinder开襟衫或Monsal休闲裤之间折腾的选择。现在,休闲裤从未真正出现在我的缝纫雷达上,但制作时的天气又寒冷又痛苦,我想做的只是躺在沙发上,原来是休闲裤。


There are three pattern options: full length, with or without cuff, 和 shorts length. I went for the cuffed version, adding the optional cut away pockets with a contrast pocket band. One 非常 helpful thing that Wendy does in the book is list the fabrics that each of her samples are made from. Based on this I chose a 海军桥 for the main 长裤 with a contrasting grey marl in the same fabric for the cuffs, waistband 和 pocket bands. The quality of the ponte was lovely - a nice medium/heavy weight with a good amount of stretch. With hindsight, I should perhaps have chosen a lighter weight fabric for the pocket bands as the double layers of ponte ending up 非常 bulky to sew through. 


这些说明轻而易举,实际上采用了与我以前用于制作裤子的方法不同的方法。通常,我会分别化妆两条腿,然后将一条腿放到另一条腿中,然后一次性缝制前后c接缝。本书中的方法是先缝the部接缝-这将给您提供整个前部和整个后部-然后缝制内部的腿部接缝。添加口袋后,您只需缝制侧缝,便拥有一条裤子!对我来说,这似乎是一种简单得多的方法,我肯定会再次使用。


试图在上方复制模型的姿势...
合身应该是宽松的(不是宽​​松的),腿形逐渐变细。我喜欢逐渐变细的腿部形状,但我可以将它们缩短一些,因为它们在膝盖以下会明显折皱。小腿部分也有些紧,但这可能要归功于我新发现的跑步小腿(哎呀)。正如预测的那样,它们非常舒适,非常适合在房子周围时尚地闲逛。最近,当“东方猛兽”袭击英国时,他们绝对是天赐之物-舒适,舒适,绝对比睡衣更上一层楼!


There's a lot of work that's gone into the writing 和 production of this book 和 this is evident throughout. It's an excellent first guide for beginners 和 a 非常 good source of patterns 和 advice for those who are already familiar with sewing with knits. Like the look of it? Well you're in luck, as MAKEetc.com are offering readers of my blog a 25% discount off the purchase price. Simply purchase through their website 和 enter the code BLOG25 在结帐时。折扣有效期至2018年4月21日。




针织面料缝纫初学者指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the fabric for my project was kindly supplied by Minerva Crafts. All views my own. 

2016年11月14日,星期一

裙子初学者指南-博客之旅

当我于2009年首次学习缝制时,我的制衣老师建议我首先掌握制裙的艺术。她的理由是,女性的下半部通常比上半部更容易合身。我徒劳地寻找了一本书,可以教我做到这一点,但没有找到适合自己的专门针对裙子的书。 How I wish A Beginner's裙子制作指南 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward)当时就在身边!


The book is exactly as described: a 全面 guide to making skirts with full size paper patterns. Wendy focuses on eight basic skirt shapes: circle, A-line, stretch pencil, wrap, bubble, tailored pencil, front opening 和 culottes 和 offers three variations for each style. That's a lot of skirts to get your teeth into!



The simplest version of each style is shown made up in denim, which I think is a nice touch as it gives you a good idea of the basic shape before you start getting adventurous! The majority of styles are ones I'd make 和 wear, the only exception being the bubble (or puffball) skirt which I was never a fan of, even as a teenager in the 80's!  

对于每个项目变体,都有分步说明和清晰的图表,以及插入拉链,连接腰带,添加衬里等基本方法,所有这些都包含在出色的产品中。 技巧 这本书后面的部分。


这部分是 庞大的 和 it really does cover everything you need to know, 不 just about skirt making but about sewing in general - it's almost a sewing book in its own right! The techniques required for each project are listed 在 the beginning of each skirt 'type' 和 it's definitely worth reading through them beforehand so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. You'll still have to flick between different parts of the book to look them up, especially if you're a beginner, but 在 least you'll be prepared. 



在进行准备工作时,我还建议您阅读 使用纸样 部分 非常小心 before you start. I dived straight in 和 consequently tripped up a couple of times. Firstly, the pattern piece for the skirt I made (the Rusholme) is printed in two halves (top half 和 bottom half) on two different pattern sheets, which flummoxed me a little. Secondly, some pattern pieces, such as waistbands 和 facings, are used for 一个以上的项目. I was looking in vain for ages for a facing for the Rusholme裙子 before I re-read the instructions 和 realised I had to use the pattern pieces for the Fallowfield skirt!

Once you've located your pieces you'll need to trace them from the three large pattern sheets, as the sheets are printed on both sides 和 the patterns overlap. I have to admit, a Burda-style pattern road map is 不 my favourite way to work, but having said that, once I'd worked out a few basics (see paragraph above!), it didn't actually take long to trace them off.


The skirts in the book are printed in order of difficulty 和 the Rusholme A字裙 I chose is somewhere in the middle. The skirt is shown with three variations: short with a waist facing, knee-length with waistband 和 centre front pleat or long with pockets 和 waistband.

In the spirit of the book I chose to mix 和 match between variations, making a short skirt with a waist facing but also including a centre front pleat. The book actually advises to use a facing with the pleated version (and I can see why as there is more fabric in the pleat to be supported) but I decided to be a rebel 和 throw caution to the wind.


尺码取决于您的臀部尺寸,范围从34¾英寸(88厘米)至51英寸(129厘米)。这相当于英国的8-26尺寸或美国的4-22尺寸。我裁掉了38英寸的臀部,但由于腰围太紧,所以在腰部将其分级为下一个尺寸。我还使用最小尺寸的长度来节省必须缩短图案的时间。这些是我对图案进行的唯一更改,因为只有两个裙摆件和两个面对件,所以缝制时间很短。

我使用的面料是细羊毛西装(牛仔布中的静音网格) from Fabworks, who kindly supplied the fabrics for this blog tour. It's a reasonably lightweight fabric with a good drape 和 the ability to hold a sharp crease, which was exactly what I was after. It does fray quite 不iceably if handled too much, but apart from that it was a pleasure to work with.


成品裙子就像手套一样适合我:腰部的舒适度非常好(我很高兴自己穿上了尺码!),但形状仍然不错。我也喜欢倒褶的宽敞感,几乎就像我穿着一双裙裤一样。至于非法的褶皱/褶皱组合,我很高兴地报告,到目前为止,它还没有引起任何问题,这可能是因为我的布料不太重。

A Beginner's裙子制作指南 is an excellent introduction to skirt making, 不 just for beginners but for more experienced sewers too. As Wendy says 在 the start of the book, "The devil is in the detail 和 I'll show you how to perfect those details…I'm a stickler for doing things right 和 taking the time needed to get the best results" I'm definitely pleased with the results - so much so that I've already cut out a second skirt!




A Beginner's裙子制作指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the fabric was supplied by Fabworks. All views my own.




2016年9月8日星期四

进入:缝纫

早上好!猜猜今天出版了什么-干草?


我的书,就是这样!是的,9月8日看到 进入:缝纫 简·马兰(Jane Marland)!!!! 进入:缝纫 is the first in a series of creative craft titles by Wayland Books designed to get kids interested in popular hobbies. The eleven projects in my book use simple hand sewing techniques 和 are fun, colourful 和 easy-to-follow. 

The book is aimed 在 8-11 year olds 和 the projects are suitable for a range of abilities. Here's the complete Contents list.


I've included some absolute beginner projects such as Lavender Bags 和 simple Felt Flowers….


有些项目的参与度更高,例如色彩鲜艳的彩旗…


 … 和 a smart Pencil Roll…


The shirt cushion project is a 非常 simplified version of one of the tutorials on my blog, especially adapted for hand sewing. Once the front 和 back are cut out all that's required is some neat backstitching!


And my favourite project in the book is probably the Juggling Ball - fun to make 和 such a cool present!


我有些偏见,但是我认为这是对儿童缝纫的很好的介绍!而且,如果您知道任何可能喜欢它的小人物(甚至大人物!),都可以从 亚马孙 as of today 在 £12.99! I've been told it's also being published in Australia around the same time 和 am awaiting details of availability in the US 和 Canada. I'll add an update to this post as soon as I know.

祝你有美好的一天! X

我家人中的每个人都将获得圣诞节的副本!





2015年6月18日,星期四

书评:缝制它的年份


缝在老式 是Lisa Comfort( 缝在上面 sewing classes 和 patterns fame), this time focusing on 复古的 style. I found it refreshing that Lisa doesn't promise you a head-to-toe 复古的 wardrobe once you've read it. What she does do is to take inspiration from 复古的 fashions 和 styles of the past 和 mix them up with modern elements to avoid looking too costumey. This pretty much sums up my own approach to using 复古的 style in my wardrobe so I knew I'd get on well with this book!

它分为四个不同的部分:

-涉猎一些年份-适用于那些希望为现有物品增添些许复古气息的人。 

在领口添加Peter Pan领子 
Adding fur cuffs 和 collar to a coat

-做一个复古风格的衣柜  -这是我真正感兴趣的部分!

-搭配一些东西-如何制作自己的复古配饰

-老式住宅

The 30 projects in the book are clearly labelled with a skill level 和 there are plenty of quick, easy fixes for those new to sewing, particularly in the Embellishing 和 Vintage 首页 部分s. For me though, it was the second 部分 (make your own 复古的 wardrobe) that was the most interesting part of the book 和 what I'll be focusing on in this review.

在进行裁缝项目之前,您确实需要有一些缝纫经验。这样做的原因是因为本书没有包含任何模式-它们都是由块组成的,您可以根据自己的测量来自己绘制。我向你保证,这是  as scary as it sounds - I'm a complete thickie when it comes to anything involving maths 和 measuring, but even managed to draft a bodice block without incident. Yes, they take a bit of time to create, but they're 不 difficult. There's a well explained 部分 on measuring yourself properly (you'll need a friend/partner to take some of the measurements) 和 the steps are 非常 comprehensive 和 detailed.



这本书包括十个服装项目,全部使用紧身胸衣或裙部设计而成。然后,Lisa向您展示如何调整基本块以创建不同的服装设计。从1920到1960年代,设计的影响范围广泛:

别致的1920年代Anita领带上衣,搭配牛仔裤。


这款可爱的1950年代领带领水手上衣,配以简化的领子。 


这款贝蒂·德雷珀(Betty Draper)风格的褶皱半身裙。这本书中的示例是用可丽饼制作的,使它看起来更柔和-我很想制作一个更具结构感的产品。 


这款可爱的1960年代风格百褶连衣裙。该项目以现有的合身上衣为起点,然后向您展示如何绘制裙子并将其连接。如此漂亮的结果!


需要注意的一件事是,紧身胸衣不适合紧身胸衣-使用所有紧身胸衣的项目都内置了很多便利。这简化了过程,并且不需要飞镖和闭合。因此,如果您希望将上半部分安装到使用寿命的一英寸以内,那么裁缝项目可能不会符合您的口味。老实说,我也喜欢上半身也非常适合,所以当我的注意力不断吸引到1920年代时尚的别致眼镜时,我感到很惊讶, 非结构化 Anita领带上衣! Eventually I caved in 和 drafted one for myself. Yes, you read that correctly, 我为自己起草了一个!!! Despite my scepticism about the relaxed fit, it's a winner 和 I've already worn it out twice! I changed a couple of things about it, so I think it deserves its own separate post, but 这里's a sneaky peek of the finished top….


…还有我一个穿着它是自动起草的,您不知道!


If you're familiar with using commercial patterns, but would like a bit of hand holding before moving onto 图案切割 in more detail then I can't recommend this book highly enough. I certainly got a lot out of it 和 already have plans for a self-drafted pleated skirt.  x


缝在老式 由我免费提供给我审核 爱情缝纫杂志,所有意见都是我自己的。您可以在这里找到其他缝纫博主对这本书的看法:

缝合的奥德赛
你做到了吗?
皮涅罗之家
凯蒂缝什么





2015年3月8日,星期日

时尚与面料书评

Just as the Great British Sewing Bee seems to have evolved as a TV series (more challenging tasks, contestants working with a variety of different fabrics 和 techniques etc), so too does the accompanying book. I reviewed the book for the first series 这里 和 was mostly positive about it, my main criticism being the lack of patterns included. I was recently asked to review the book for the current series - 面料时尚 - 哇,几年有什么不同!


这次的重点是所用的织物,这使阅读令人惊讶。本书根据使用最广泛和最受欢迎的面料分为四个主要章节:棉,羊毛和其他动物面料,弹力面料和豪华面料。鼓励读者以本书为起点,然后尝试自己的想法,我认为这是一个很好的选择。许多项目也有“破解”建议,我认为其中一些是对原始模式的改进!每章还包含有关使用这些不同结构的建议和技巧,我发现它们非常有用。


与其他模式书籍不同(我在这里包括第一本GBSB书籍), 全面 本书中专门用于调整图案以使其准确匹配的部分。除了标准的胸围,腰围和臀围测量值之外,还要求读者进行高胸围测量,以确定是否需要完全或小的胸围调节。然后说明如何做。对于许多女性来说,这是非常重要的调整步骤,但在很多书籍中却很少出现。还有关于移动飞镖,宽或窄的背部调整的建议,以及有关穿裤子和摆弄裤c深度和长度的有用技巧的页面。作者 - 克莱尔·路易丝·哈迪 - has years of experience as a theatrical 和 costume designer 和 runs her own sewing school. She's also the sewing producer for the show 和 this working knowledge absolutely shines through in the book.


本书中有30个项目,其中包括迄今为止的一系列项目(卡普里岛长裤,休闲装,男式短裙和窗帘裙),以及几个男童和儿童图案。对于那些想要参与更具挑战性项目的人,这里有紧身胸衣连衣裙(紧身胸衣),皮夹克和上述苏格兰短裙。这些模式打包在一个单独的包中,无论如何我还是会鼓励我使用它们。书本后面的图案在我的世界中往往容易被忘记,但是如果放在单独的包装中,它们可以与我的图案一起生活!图案为全尺寸,但由于每张纸上有多个图案,因此需要进行描画。这并没有听起来那么令人头疼,因为它们都经过了清晰的标记和颜色编码-就像Burda杂志一样! 女人的图案有7种不同的尺寸,从8号(32½" bust, 25 ½“腰围,腰围为36英寸)到20号(45½" bust, 38 ½" waist, 49 ½" hip)

在模式本身中,有一些我可能会在某个时候尝试一下...

…无袖外套...


…真丝三通...


… 和 the sleeveless collared blouse.



我也喜欢卡普里(Capri)裤子的外观,尽管书中那个可怜的模特不得不穿这可怕的例子…


有一些我可以从远方欣赏的模式,但可能永远都不会尝试:男式短裙是一种-尽管我很想让乔恩为它建模,但我很想这么做!宽松的针织连衣裙是另一种,因为它与我的个人风格相去甚远。我可以欣赏其他可以摇摆这种风格的人,我特别想起Karen的版本 你做到了吗? 简直叹为观止。


我一直坚持着最后的模式 -蕾丝铅笔裙-这是我已经做过的!




I kept coming back to it in the book 和 in the end just decided to give it a try with some leftover fabric from my 蕾丝上衣。对于下半裙,我使用的是海绿色衬里面料,以前用于衬托我的袖子 煮羊毛外套 so all in all, a good stash busting exercise! The skirt is a simple, elegant shape with no front darts, an invisible zip 和 a facing. I only ever intended it to be a practice run to test out the pattern, but I think the finished version is totally wearable. I also made it before this week's episode of the GBSB 和 let me tell you, I could NEVER have finished it in 3 hours or however long they were given. Hats off to the semi finalists!



Using the finished measurements as a guide, I made a size 10 with no adjustments, 和 the fit is spot on. The two skirt layers are made up separately, but 在 tached around the zip as a single layer. They're then treated as two separate fabrics 下面 the zip. It's a brilliant technique which I'll definitely use again. I also used hairline seams for the first time, where the seam is stitched, narrowly zigzagged 和 then trimmed. A hairline seam is a good choice for sheer fabrics 和 it worked well for my 花边 overskirt, creating a 非常 light finish.


I'm amazed by the number of excellent tips 和 techniques I've picked up from reading this book - I learnt two new ones just from making a simple skirt! I'll keep you updated with anything else I make from it, but so far, it's shaping up to be one of my favourite sewing books to date.

“面料时尚” 由Quadrille Publishing免费提供给我进行审查。所有意见都是我自己的。








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