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2018年4月4日,星期三

针织面料缝纫初学者指南-博客之旅

今天是我在 针织面料缝纫初学者指南 博客之旅。这是 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward) latest book 和 the perfect starting point if you're wanting to branch out 和 start sewing with knits. 的 book includes full sized paper 模式s for six core garments (T-shirt, Wide Leg Trousers, Tank, Lounge Pants, Cardigan 和 Skirt) with a variety of hacks to give a choice of twenty different variations. 


这本书的布局与Wendy的第一本书相似 A Beginner's裙子制作指南 (已审核 这里)。对于每个项目,都有详尽的分步说明,其中有清晰的图表,并在综合的“技术”部分中提供了解决特定技术的方法(添加颈带,卷边,使用松紧带等)。这些技术在每个项目的开始都已提到,建议您在开始之前先阅读这些技术。实际上,在执行任何操作之前,我强烈建议您阅读第9页的“如何使用这本书”部分,因为它列出了充分利用本书所需要了解的一切。 


的 模式s are printed on both sides of each sheet 和 overlap, so you will need to trace them. Also, some larger pieces (such as trouser legs) may be printed in two halves, so make sure you know where the two halves are! A helpful guide showing which projects 和 模式 pieces are printed on each sheet can be found on page 23. One thing I found slightly annoying 是 that there are no sizes i.e. size 数字 印在图案上,只是不同的图案 标记 每个尺寸。如果您对与尺寸有关的标记感到困惑(就像我以前一样),则该书的内页背面有一个钥匙。

Sizes range from US size 4 (UK 8) to US 22 (UK 26) 和 the garments are sized depending on which area of the body the garment will fit most closely. 的 two trouser 模式s are sized on hip measurements, the cardigan, T-shirt 和 tank are sized on bust measurements 和 the skirt 是 based on waist measurement. Just make sure you're working from the correct area of the body before you start.


我必须说老实话,其中一些图案并不是我真正的风格,尤其是长裙。 T恤和背心与我以前做过很多次的设计相似,而阔腿裤没有吸引力。因此,这是在别致的多功能Kinder开襟衫或Monsal休闲裤之间折腾的选择。现在,休闲裤从未真正出现在我的缝纫雷达上,但制作时的天气又寒冷又痛苦,我想做的只是躺在沙发上,原来是休闲裤。


的re are three 模式 options: full length, with or without cuff, 和 shorts length. I went for the cuffed version, adding the optional cut away pockets with a contrast pocket band. One very helpful thing that Wendy does in the book 是 list the 布s that each of her samples are made from. Based on this I chose a 海军桥 for the main 长裤 with a contrasting grey marl in the same 布 for the cuffs, waistband 和 pocket bands. 的 quality of the ponte was lovely - a nice medium/heavy weight with a good amount of stretch. With hindsight, I should perhaps have chosen a lighter weight 布 for the pocket bands as the double layers of ponte ending up very bulky 缝 through. 


这些说明轻而易举,实际上采用了与我以前用于制作裤子的方法不同的方法。通常,我会分别化妆两条腿,然后将一条腿放到另一条腿中,然后一次性缝制前后c接缝。本书中的方法是先缝the部接缝-这将给您提供整个前部和整个后部-然后缝制内部的腿部接缝。添加口袋后,您只需缝制侧缝,便拥有一条裤子!对我来说,这似乎是一种简单得多的方法,我肯定会再次使用。


试图在上方复制模型的姿势...
合身应该是宽松的(不是宽​​松的),腿形逐渐变细。我喜欢逐渐变细的腿部形状,但我可以将它们缩短一些,因为它们在膝盖以下会明显折皱。小腿部分也有些紧,但这可能要归功于我新发现的跑步小腿(哎呀)。正如预测的那样,它们非常舒适,非常适合在房子周围时尚地闲逛。最近,当“东方猛兽”袭击英国时,他们绝对是天赐之物-舒适,舒适,绝对比睡衣更上一层楼!


的re's a lot of work that's gone into the writing 和 production of this book 和 this 是 evident throughout. It's an excellent first guide for beginners 和 a very good source of 模式s 和 advice for those who are already familiar with sewing with knits. Like the look of it? Well you're in luck, as MAKEetc.com are offering readers of my blog a 25% discount off the purchase price. Simply purchase through their website 和 enter the code BLOG25 在结帐时。折扣有效期至2018年4月21日。




针织面料缝纫初学者指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the 布 for my project was kindly supplied by Minerva Crafts. All views my own. 

2016年12月2日,星期五

另一个Rusholme半身裙-配樱桃

第一个版本的高跟鞋是我的第二个Rusholme裙子 A Beginner's裙子制作指南. 这次我省略了前中央的褶皱,这使它成为更容易缝制的裙子-实际缝制时间仅花了一个小时。


面料是最可爱的樱桃印花针线 玛丽 请从莱斯特市场接我。我喜欢它!因为needlecord倾向于粘在您的紧身衣上,所以我在这个版本上衬上了一些可爱的优质威尼斯内衬, 乔·塞斯 去年我们在金鹰路相遇时。我用了 这种方法 要添加它,只需在剪下时从裙片顶部减去饰面的长度即可。


这是一条完美的冬季小裙子,我知道我会穿很多。由于樱桃的背景色是海军色,因此可以匹配所有东西。

强制动手书籍封面拍摄!

Next up....my gold disco top! I'll be road testing it tomorrow 和 will report back on Monday. I'm hoping it will perform well on the dance floor (ahem!) Have a good weekend. x



2016年11月14日,星期一

裙子初学者指南-博客之旅

当我于2009年首次学习缝制时,我的制衣老师建议我首先掌握制裙的艺术。她的理由是,女性的下半部通常比上半部更容易合身。我徒劳地寻找了一本书,可以教我做到这一点,但没有找到适合自己的专门针对裙子的书。 How I wish A Beginner's裙子制作指南 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward)当时就在身边!


的 book 是 exactly as described: a comprehensive guide to making skirts with full size paper 模式s. Wendy focuses on eight basic skirt shapes: circle, A-line, stretch pencil, wrap, bubble, tailored pencil, front opening 和 culottes 和 offers three variations for each style. That's a lot of skirts to get your teeth into!



的 simplest version of each style 是 shown made up in denim, which I think 是 a nice touch as it gives you a good idea of the basic shape before you start getting adventurous! 的 majority of styles are ones I'd make 和 wear, the only exception being the bubble (or puffball) skirt which I was never a fan of, even as a teenager in the 80's!  

对于每个项目变体,都有分步说明和清晰的图表,以及插入拉链,连接腰带,添加衬里等基本方法,所有这些都包含在出色的产品中。 技巧 这本书后面的部分。


这部分是 庞大的 和 it really does cover everything you need to know, 不 只是 about skirt making but about sewing in general - it's almost a sewing book in its own right! 的 techniques required for each project are listed 在 the beginning of each skirt 'type' 和 it's definitely worth reading through them beforehand so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. You'll still have to flick between different parts of the book to look them up, especially if you're a beginner, but 在 least you'll be prepared. 



在进行准备工作时,我还建议您阅读 使用纸样 部分 非常小心 before you start. I dived straight in 和 consequently tripped up a couple of times. Firstly, the 模式 piece for the skirt I made (the Rusholme) 是 printed in two halves (top half 和 bottom half) on two different 模式 sheets, which flummoxed me a little. Secondly, some 模式 pieces, such as waistbands 和 facings, are used for 一个以上的项目. I was looking in vain for 年龄 for a facing for the Rusholme裙子 before I re-read the instructions 和 realised I had to use the 模式 pieces for the Fallowfield skirt!

Once you've located your pieces you'll need to trace them from the three large 模式 sheets, as the sheets are printed on both sides 和 the 模式s overlap. I have to admit, a Burda-style 模式 road map 是 不 my favourite way to work, but having said that, once I'd worked out a few basics (see paragraph above!), it didn't actually take long to trace them off.


的 skirts in the book are printed in order of difficulty 和 the Rusholme A字裙 I chose 是 somewhere in the middle. 的 skirt 是 shown with three variations: short with a waist facing, knee-length with waistband 和 centre front pleat or long with pockets 和 waistband.

In the spirit of the book I chose to mix 和 match between variations, making a short skirt with a waist facing but also including a centre front pleat. 的 book actually advises to use a facing with the pleated version (and I can see why as there 是 more 布 in the pleat to be supported) but I decided to be a rebel 和 throw caution to the wind.


尺码取决于您的臀部尺寸,范围从34¾英寸(88厘米)至51英寸(129厘米)。这相当于英国的8-26尺寸或美国的4-22尺寸。我裁掉了38英寸的臀部,但由于腰围太紧,所以在腰部将其分级为下一个尺寸。我还使用最小尺寸的长度来节省必须缩短图案的时间。这些是我对图案进行的唯一更改,因为只有两个裙摆件和两个面对件,所以缝制时间很短。

我使用的面料是细羊毛西装(牛仔布中的静音网格) from Fabworks, who kindly supplied the 布s for this blog tour. It's a reasonably lightweight 布 with a good drape 和 the ability to hold a sharp crease, which was exactly what I was after. It does fray quite 不iceably if handled too much, but apart from that it was a pleasure to work with.


成品裙子就像手套一样适合我:腰部的舒适度非常好(我很高兴自己穿上了尺码!),但形状仍然不错。我也喜欢倒褶的宽敞感,几乎就像我穿着一双裙裤一样。至于非法的褶皱/褶皱组合,我很高兴地报告,到目前为止,它还没有引起任何问题,这可能是因为我的布料不太重。

A Beginner's裙子制作指南 是 an excellent introduction to skirt making, 不 只是 for beginners but for more experienced sewers too. As Wendy says 在 the start of the book, "的 devil 是 in the detail 和 I'll show you how to perfect those details…I'm a stickler for doing things right 和 taking the time needed to get the best results" I'm definitely pleased with the results - so much so that I've already cut out a second skirt!




A Beginner's裙子制作指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the 布 was supplied by Fabworks. All views my own.




2016年5月23日,星期一

两个沃克利的故事

记住条纹 沃克利 top 我去年制作的Wendy Ward撰写?这是我的最爱(我戴了 at least once a week, often twice) that I knew a dress version for summer was on the cards. I like the fit, it's quick 和 easy 缝 和 you only need a metre of 布.


我用的面料很可爱 樱花针织衫 from 女孩查理 - a light cotton blend with a good stretch to it. I originally ordered one metre but ended up with two, as a 'print smear' was discovered on the original batch 和 I was sent a replacement. It took me 年龄 to actually find the tiny print fault 和 I'm sure I'd never have even 不iced it amidst all that cherry blossom. I appreciate the gesture though 和 I did end up with two metres to play with, so thanks 女孩查理!

当我第一次登顶时,我刻意削减所提供的三种尺寸中的最小尺寸,因为我想更贴合自己。这次我减少了下一个尺码,因为我不想穿得太紧。除了从领口上去除1英寸的楔形之外,我没有对图案进行任何其他更改。这确实很容易缝制:用包缝机缝制肩缝和侧缝,然后将颈部,袖孔和下摆翻过来再用双缝缝制针。那应该是它的结尾了,但是,,,我以1.5厘米的接缝余量(而不是指定的1厘米)缝了侧接缝。…所以我将底部切碎并相应地包起来。然后,我剪裁缝制了第二件衣服,确保这次使用了正确的接缝余量。对我来说幸运的是,我有多余的仪表可供使用!

最高版本….
…and dress version!
的 沃克利 pattern 是一个非常简单的形状,但对我确实有用。领口的 只是 the right height (and I'm fussy about anything too high) 和 the cut of the capped sleeves gives it a youthful edge without making me feel too mutton-like.


I now have two garments from the same 布 和 I couldn't be happier with them. 的 dress 是 slightly fitted but still roomy enough for a few ice creams. It's also easy to dress up or down with flip flops or clogs. And the top 是 perfect for jazzing up a pair of jeans or a denim skirt. I'll be packing both of these for my holidays this summer.  x







2015年11月3日,星期二

条纹的沃克利

看我最新的条纹上衣,由 沃克利 模式 从温迪·沃德的 MIY系列.


我必须说实话,有些MIY收集模式对于我的品味来说有点过于结构化,但是在看到S脚Bad的这种模式之后,我就大为关注 故意不匹配的条纹版本. I'm 不 edgy enough to go for mismatched 条纹 myself, but I liked the fact that the top looked both contemporary 和 smart, so into the basket it went. 


沃克利是无袖背心或连衣裙的非常简单的图案。 PDF版本仅使用八张A4即可平铺在一起。而且,如果像我一样,您没有沿不同的面料/拼色路线走下去,那么就只能剪掉一个正面和一个背面。我唯一要警惕的是船颈。我不能忍受很高的脖子,而这个看起来有点临界。我总是总是以张口结舌,尤其是在船颈很宽的情况下。我将图案片与我拥有的其他船颈图案进行了比较,而且看起来确实很宽,所以我使用 本教程。那是我所做的唯一调整。

根据您的胸围尺寸,图案分为三种尺寸。我的尺寸与中等尺码相对应,但我想缩小尺寸以切合最小。该样式应该略读,而不要紧肤。成品背心quite fitted, but that's the result I was after 和 I'm pleased. If I was using a lighter, more clingy 布, or making the dress version, then I'd definitely cut a larger size!


构造顶部从未如此简单,因为正面和背面是从同一块切割而成的,这真的不足为奇。我把整件东西缝在我的普通缝纫机上以作更改。我用平纹针织针缝制了经编针迹,以缝制肩部接缝和侧缝,这是机器上的伸缩针迹选项之一。我最近才在查看使用手册中发现其他问题时发现了这一针,真是太好了!它具有很大的拉伸力,但非常坚固。唯一的缺点是它需要 年龄 . 的 neckline, armholes 和 hem were turned under 和 hemmed with a double needle. 的se areas are all drafted with additional shaping so that they lie flat when folded, which I thought was a nice touch. 


常规模式说明的一部分是 使用针织面料 本节提供了一些有用的技巧,包括用胶带固定肩缝。有点小麻烦,但是我宁愿将此技巧放在分步说明中,也可以在一般部分中轻易忽略。也没有指示保持缝合或稳定领口的指令,我认为这对于宽领很重要。过去曾受过宽松的领口之苦,我没有任何机会,锯齿状的标准固定带贴在我的领口,距边缘约1厘米。加上我从花样上拆下的坡跟,绝对使领口感觉更稳定。除了这两点,我发现说明书中有清晰的插图,解释得很好。

我使用的面料是来自 布教母 which tragically they seem to have sold out of since I bought it. It's a lovely 蓬德罗马 knit with an unusual waffle texture on the right side 和 a soft, fleecy texture on the inside. It has a decent amount of stretch but 是 still quite a stable knit - there was no rippling on the hems. I think it works particularly well with this 模式.


我很惊讶我多么喜欢Walkley背心!尽管很简单,但感觉就像是在其他条纹上衣(很多)上切开的一样。我几乎可以肯定会制作其他版本,尤其是因为组装起来如此之快。星期二快乐! X




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