当我于2009年首次学习缝制时，我的制衣老师建议我首先掌握制裙的艺术。她的理由是，女性的下半部通常比上半部更容易合身。我徒劳地寻找了一本书，教我如何做，但没有找到适合自己的专门针对裙子的书。 How I wish
A Beginner's裙子制作指南 温迪·沃德（Wendy Ward）当时就在身边！
The book 是 exactly as described: a comprehensive guide to making skirts with full size paper patterns. Wendy focuses on eight basic skirt shapes: circle, A-line, stretch pencil, wrap, bubble, tailored pencil, front opening 和 culottes 和 offers three variations for each style. That's a lot of skirts to get your teeth into!
The simplest version of each style 是 shown made up in denim, which I think 是 a nice touch as it gives you a good idea of the basic shape before you start getting adventurous! The majority of styles are ones I'd make 和 wear, the only exception being the bubble (or puffball) skirt which I was never a fan of, even as a teenager in the 80's!
对于每个项目变体，都有分步说明和清晰的图表，以及插入拉链，连接腰带，添加衬里等基本方法，所有这些都包含在出色的产品中。
技术技巧 这本书后面的部分。
这部分是
庞大的 和 it really does cover everything you need to know, 不 只是 about skirt making but about sewing in general - it's almost a sewing book in its own right! The techniques required for each project are listed 在 the beginning of each skirt 'type' 和 it's definitely worth reading through them beforehand so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. 您'll still have to flick between different parts of the book to look them up, especially if you're a beginner, but 在 least you'll be prepared.
在进行准备工作时，我还建议您阅读 使用纸样 部分 非常小心 before you start. I dived straight in 和 consequently tripped up a couple of times. Firstly, the pattern piece for the skirt I made (the Rusholme) 是 printed in two halves (top half 和 bottom half) on two different pattern sheets, which flummoxed me a little. Secondly, some pattern pieces, such as waistbands 和 facings, are used for 一个以上的项目. I was looking in vain for ages for a facing for the Rusholme裙子 before I re-read the instructions 和 realised I had to use the pattern pieces for the Fallowfield skirt!
Once you've located your pieces you'll need to trace them from the three large pattern sheets, as the sheets are printed on both sides 和 the patterns overlap. I have to admit, a Burda-style pattern road map 是 不 my favourite way to work, but having said that, once I'd worked out a few basics (see paragraph above!), it didn't actually take long to trace them off.
The skirts in the book are printed in order of difficulty 和 the Rusholme A字裙 I chose 是 somewhere in the middle. The skirt 是 shown with three variations: short with a waist facing, knee-length with waistband 和 centre front pleat or long with pockets 和 waistband.
In the spirit of the book I chose to mix 和 match between variations, making a short skirt with a waist facing but also including a centre front pleat. The book actually advises
不 to use a facing with the pleated version (and 我可以 see why as there 是 more fabric in the pleat to be supported) but I decided to be a rebel 和 throw caution to the wind.
尺码取决于您的臀部尺寸，范围从34 ¾英寸（88厘米）至51英寸（129厘米）。这相当于英国的8-26尺寸或美国的4-22尺寸。我裁掉了38英寸的臀部，但由于腰围太紧，所以在腰部将其分级为下一个尺寸。我还使用最小尺寸的长度来节省不必缩短图案的时间。这些是我对图案进行的唯一更改，因为只有两个裙摆件和两个面对件，所以缝制时间很短。
我使用的面料是细羊毛西装（
牛仔布中的静音网格) from Fabworks, who kindly supplied the fabrics for this blog tour. It's a reasonably lightweight fabric with a good drape 和 the ability to hold a sharp crease, which was exactly what I was after. It does fray quite 不iceably if handled too much, but apart from that it was a pleasure to work with.
成品裙子就像手套一样适合我：腰部的舒适度非常好（我很高兴自己穿上了尺码！），但形状仍然不错。我也喜欢倒褶的宽敞感，几乎就像我穿着一双裙裤一样。至于非法的褶皱/褶皱组合，我很高兴地报告，到目前为止，它还没有引起任何问题，这可能是因为我的布料不太重。
A Beginner's裙子制作指南 是 an excellent introduction to skirt making, 不 只是 for beginners but for more experienced sewers too. As Wendy says 在 the start of the book, "The devil 是 in the detail 和 I'll show you how to perfect those details…I'm a stickler for doing things right 和 taking the time needed to get the best results" I'm definitely pleased with the results - so much so that I've already cut out a second skirt!
A Beginner's裙子制作指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the fabric was supplied by Fabworks. All views my own.
