2016年11月14日,星期一

初学者's制作裙子的指南-博客之旅

当我于2009年首次学习缝制时,我的制衣老师建议我首先掌握制裙的艺术。她的理由是,女性的下半部通常比上半部更容易合身。我徒劳地寻找了一本书,可以教我做到这一点,但没有找到适合自己的专门针对裙子的书。 How I wish A Beginner's裙子制作指南 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward)当时就在身边!


The book is exactly as described: a comprehensive guide to making skirts with full size paper patterns. Wendy focuses on eight basic skirt shapes: circle, A-line, stretch pencil, wrap, bubble, tailored pencil, front opening 和 culottes 和 offers three variations for each style. That's a lot of skirts to get your teeth into!



The simplest version of each style is shown made up in denim, which I think is a nice touch as it gives you a good idea of the basic shape before you start getting adventurous! The majority of styles are ones I'd make 和 wear, the only exception being the bubble (or puffball) skirt which I was never a fan of, even as a teenager in the 80's!  

对于每个项目变体,都有分步说明和清晰图表,以及插入拉链,系腰带,添加衬里等基本方法,所有这些都包含在出色的产品中。 技巧 这本书后面的部分。


这部分是 庞大的 和 it really does cover everything you need to know, 不 just about skirt making but about sewing in general - it's almost a sewing book in its own right! The techniques required for each project are listed 在 the beginning of each skirt 'type' 和 it's definitely worth reading through them beforehand so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. You'll still have to flick between different parts of the book to look them up, especially if you're a beginner, but 在 least you'll be prepared. 



在进行准备工作时,我还建议您阅读 使用纸样 部分 很小心 before you start. I dived straight in 和 consequently tripped up a couple of times. Firstly, the pattern piece for the skirt I made (the Rusholme) is printed in two halves (top half 和 bottom half) on two different pattern sheets, which flummoxed me a little. Secondly, some pattern pieces, such as waistbands 和 facings, are used for 一个以上的项目. I was looking in vain for ages for a facing for the Rusholme裙子 before I re-read the instructions 和 realised I had to use the pattern pieces for the Fallowfield skirt!

Once you've located your pieces you'll need to trace them from the three large pattern sheets, as the sheets are printed on both sides 和 the patterns overlap. I have to admit, a Burda-style pattern road map is 不 my favourite way to work, but having said that, once I'd worked out a few basics (see paragraph above!), it didn't actually take long to trace them off.


The skirts in the book are printed in order of difficulty 和 the Rusholme A字裙 I chose is somewhere in the middle. The skirt is shown with three variations: short with a waist facing, knee-length with waistband 和 centre front pleat or long with pockets 和 waistband.

In the spirit of the book I chose to mix 和 match between variations, making a short skirt with a waist facing but also including a centre front pleat. The book actually advises to use a facing with the pleated version (and I can see why as there is more fabric in the pleat to be supported) but I decided to be a rebel 和 throw caution to the wind.


尺码取决于您的臀部尺寸,范围从34¾英寸(88厘米)至51英寸(129厘米)。这相当于英国的8-26尺寸或美国的4-22尺寸。我剪了一个38英寸的臀部,但由于腰围太紧,所以在腰部将其分级为下一个尺寸。我还使用最小尺寸的长度来节省必须缩短图案的时间。这些是我对图案进行的唯一更改,因为只有两个裙板和两个饰面板,所以缝制时间很短。

我使用的面料是细羊毛西装(牛仔布中的静音网格) from Fabworks , who kindly supplied the fabrics for this blog tour. It's a reasonably lightweight fabric with a good drape 和 the ability to hold a sharp crease, which was exactly what I was after. It does fray quite 不 iceably if handled too much, but apart from that it was a pleasure to work with.


成品裙子像手套一样适合我:它在腰部具有完美的放松感(我很高兴自己穿了一个尺码!),但形状仍然不错。我也喜欢倒褶的宽敞感,几乎就像我穿着一双裙裤一样。至于非法的褶皱/褶皱组合,我很高兴地报告,到目前为止,它还没有引起任何问题,这可能是因为我的布料不太重。

初学者's裙子制作指南 is an excellent introduction to skirt making, 不 just for beginners but for more experienced sewers too. As Wendy says 在 the start of the book, "The devil is in the detail 和 I'll show you how to perfect those details…I'm a stickler for doing things right 和 taking the time needed to get the best results" I'm definitely pleased with the results - so much so that I've already cut out a second skirt!




初学者's裙子制作指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the fabric was supplied by Fabworks . All views my own.




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9条评论:

  1. 前几天我才发现这本书!感谢您的审查。我喜欢你的裙子怎么变"illegal facing" 和 all! :)

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  2. Looks great - 和 what a useful book!Sewing is coming back into vogue. Many people are tired of the cookie-cutter type clothing found in retail stores. They want something unique, 和 want to show off their creativity, 和 this is a perfect starting point.

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    1. I agree, it is a perfect starting point 和 good for experienced Stitchers too! x

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  3. 我喜欢你这条裙子。认为我需要买书!
    我能问一下你从哪里买鞋的吗?一世'我是蓝色鞋子的忠实粉丝,但避风港'最近没有看到很多我真的很喜欢。

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    1. 谢谢!我的鞋子来自克拉克斯,但我没有'我最近买不到'恐怕现在至少是五年前,大概是六年前。我爱他们,因为他们'重蓝,也是因为他们'楔形比双脚跟更容易踩在脚上! X

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  4. I do think that new sewists have such a wide range of sewing books 和 support now compared to when I began sewing years ago. Books like this one really help you to succeed with your projects 和 once you have made one garment well, that'如此,终生迷住了。

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    1. 我同意,即使相对于七年前的最近,选择仍然少得多。 X

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  5. 大裙子,我'm planning on making a couple of Rusholmes myself. Just wondering, for the plain 和 pleated versions there'没有提到额外的SA,它只是说缝了缝。因此,是否在前件的中央添加SA? X

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