2016年12月30日,星期五

手工圣诞礼物


今年,我只做了一份手工制作的圣诞节礼物,这是完全没有计划的。乔恩偷了一张这张照片 优雅的德雷克的领带 从超时副本中完成£125 price tag. 


德雷克的真丝领带
现在我知道他永远不会把这笔钱花在打领带上(他几乎没有戴过, 除了在本博客上摆姿势拍照外...) 和 would be equally horrified if I shelled out big bucks too. I think he just liked the look of it. It got me thinking though - if I could find a nice looking Prince of Wales check, I could whip him one up myself 和 surprise him on Christmas Day...

因此,在圣诞节前三天,我热烈地徒步前往金鹰路(Goldhawk Road)寻找布料。随着学校的破裂,我和查理在一起,我知道那一定是一次闪电般的快速拜访(他不热衷于在商店里徘徊,除非他们碰巧出售喷壶)。最后,我不得不在Pizza Express午餐时贿赂他,但这是值得的,因为我很快就找到了完美的面料。它来自一家名为Misan West的崭新,时尚的布料店,虽然价格不便宜,但这里有许多优质的西装和丝绸。我买了一米的威尔士亲王格纹轻质羊毛适合£15,这个女孩请多加一点,以防我把它弄坏了。碰巧的是,我并没有做任何事情,而且由于织物很宽,如果愿意,我仍然有足够的铅笔裙摆,呼啦!对于衬里,我使用了一些残留的威尼斯衬里面料 这条裙子.



不幸的是,我是犯罪的搭档- -忙着做panto跑步(如果您有兴趣的话,他是灰姑娘里一位出色的丑女姐妹!),我必须承认,我错过了他的专业知识。我还意识到他拥有我们一起努力过的所有领带模式,所以我不得不即兴创作!我记得在Sew Over It Vintage一书中有一条领带,所以我着手从书中起草。我做了几个小改动:将其延长10厘米以匹配现有的领带,并缩小了脖子后部的缝隙,以使衬衫领子能够遮盖住它。起草花了一个下午,而我实际上又花了一个下午缝制了它。仅涉及少量的机器缝制,过程的冗长部分用在熨衣板上并手工缝制中央接缝。 



除了明显的区别he posh Drake's tie is silk 和 the one I made is wool, 我不认为他们是  不同于未经训练的眼睛。 我无法正确调整照片的颜色,因此您必须相信我的领带在现实生活中要轻得多- the colours 和 checks really are 非常 similar. 乔恩(Jon)在圣诞节那天的脸,当他意识到我把它做成照片的时候!

德雷克的领带


简的领带

2016年12月27日,星期二

闪亮简约派对上衣


季节的问候!如果你跟着我 Instagram的,您已经看到我在哭泣 简单 我为本期杂志评论的 现在缝 杂志-噢! 


Today I thought I'd share a few more details on the blog as I was limited to just 300 words, 和 I still have 很多 more to say about it. Plus it will give you something to read if you're lazing around, browsing your blog feed 和 eating chocolates (or is 那 just me?!)

简洁8260 is an easy-to-sew top in two lengths, with a choice of sleeve options 和 an unusual cross over back. 

这是一种优雅,悬垂的风格 很轻松,因此建议您根据 完了 测量值而不是您的实际测量值。根据身体 测量图 I was a Medium (14-16), but I went ahead 和 cut a size Small (10-12) with no regrets. 当我在12月审查这种模式时,我认为长袖版本会是最适合天气的(尽管我非常喜欢无袖版本的外观), 和 I chose the longer length (view B). The pattern requires minimal fitting 和 I made no changes to the pattern. The only thing I would mention is 那 the full length sleeves are quite fitted. I personally prefer this, but you 可能 want to add a bit of width if you don't like such a tight fit. 


There are only three pattern pieces (two if you go for the sleeveless option) 和 no darts or fastenings, so construction is 非常 simple. One thing to 不e is 那 the back pieces are cut on the bias 和 liable to stretch out. I'd recommend stay stitching these edges before you begin to prevent this happening. The two back pieces are crossed over each other 和 basted together to form one piece 和 the sleeves are inserted flat, so 整个顶端很快就聚集在一起。 The pattern recommends using bias tape to finish the back opening edges 和 hems, but I didn't actually finish mine this way. I bought some lovely metallic bias tape which I didn't use in the end, as it ended up distorting the edge of my lightweight fabric. 我用狭窄的翻折下摆代替了边缘。 


The fabric was quite sheer 和 any hem rippling around the neckline would have been really apparent, so I drafted a simple facing instead, using the front 和 back pattern pieces. This gave a much cleaner finish to the neckline. I also used French seams throughout

The fabric itself was rather lovely 和 came from 布点,这是一个崭新的在线布料商店,精心挑选了各种华丽的制衣面料。叫做 水星下降 和 is a fluid, metallic-silvered lightweight 绉. All of the fabric descriptions on the site are 非常 detailed (which I appreciate) 和 they even include a video clip of this particular fabric in motion! It's supposed to be hand washed to avoid damage to the metallic in the fabric... I simply crossed my fingers 和 machine washed it on the hand wash cycle. A bit of metallic in one corner came away, but otherwise there were no ill effects. It does require quite careful handling - don't forget to stay stitch bias edges as pointed out above, 和 be vigilant when pressing hems to avoid rippling. I needed a fabric with a fair amount of glitz, 那 also had some drape to it 和 I have to say, 水星下降 delivered on both counts. 


The fit of the top is a bit of a departure for me (the shoulders are dropped 和 没有 造型),我非常喜欢它带来的优雅效果。我也喜欢这样的事实,它的正面很简单,但是转向背面,有一个派对正在举行。我必须承认,我还没有穿破顶部,所以无法证明跨界鞋的耐磨性。图案信封上的背面似乎比我的版本更深,这可能归功于巧妙的摄影。如果我感觉自己穿着医院的袍子,我可能最终会把后背钉在一起。我将对此进行报告! 

如果您正在寻找一个快速,有趣的制衣项目(如果像我一样省略斜纹带,则可以更快),那么这种模式是理想的选择。正如我在评论中所说,ust add a pair of slim trousers, heels 和 a big necklace 和 you’re party ready! 而且,如果您已经有了当年的派对配额,那么您可以随时在英国1月中旬的凄凉中为自己加油打气!祝你有美好的一天。 X


The pattern 和 fabric were given to me free of charge by 韦弗·迪 和 布点 for review. All views my own.




2016年12月19日,星期一

2016:流行曲与失落

2016 has been a good 裁缝 year for me. I haven't been as prolific as in previous years, but 那's because I've been a bit more considered in what I choose to sew. I've concentrated more on fit 和 fabric choice 和 this has definitely resulted in fewer failures 和 unworn garments! 

So without further ado, let's look 在 my favourite makes 和 a couple 那 didn't quite work...

命中 

新面貌6217
毫无疑问,这是我缝纫年度最大的成功案例是 新面貌6217. It 可能 be a plain, unprepossessing little pattern, but it always seems to magically come up with the goods for me. The top 和 skirt both fit me straight from the envelope 和 are 非常 easy to sew. 我的 favourite of the five tops I've sewn is still 第一个, made with black satin-backed 绉. It goes with everything 和 always looks classy. There's a round-up of all my other versions on my OWOP post 这里.


我的 NL6217圆点牛仔裙 should also get a mention as it was such a wardrobe staple over the summer. The fabric has a great stretch to it, so it's both comfortable to wear 和 a flattering fit.


大复古Sewalong连衣裙
这种Vogue复制模式(V8875) has only been worn once as it's 非常 dressy, but I still want to include it as I received so many compliments when I wore it! It's made from a gorgeous luxury 绉, so it hangs beautifully 和 has a 非常 polished look. I also worked really hard to perfect the fit 和 feel really fabulous in it!


复古肩带上衣
使用 女人的自己 vintage pattern, this has been a surprise hit as it's more of a boxier fit than I'm used to. The cute 领带 are a lovely vintage touch 和 I found myself reaching for it again 和 again over the summer. The lush Liberty fabric doesn't hurt either!


方格布工
This was made to replace a much loved, 非常 similar top 和 is a big improvement on the original. It's made using the Sewaholic格兰维尔模式, which is a great fit on me, 和 the 100% cotton gingham is a lovely quality. In fact I'm wearing it as I type this (underneath a jumper)! 



遗失

只有两个,这两个都不是一场彻底的灾难。 

Karen垂坠连衣裙
尽管我喜欢这种垂褶的风格 玛丽亚丹麦模式, it's still a bit too grown up 和 slinky for me, hence it's only been worn once. I do really like the side pleat detail though, so 可能 well just shorten it into a top. Teamed with a plain skirt or jeans, I'm sure it would get worn a lot more frequently. This can be a nice easy job for the New Year!


Clara蝴蝶结衬衫
我已经穿了几次这种图案,但剪裁从未完全正确。这是一个很好的模式(原始模式评论是 这里) but needs a bit of tweaking to get it to fit me properly: I'd need to do an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) 和 lengthen it considerably. 


那时只有两个小故障,我认为整整一年的缝纫都不错!

您在2016年获得的最大成功(和失败)是什么?哪些图案被证明是意想不到的宝石?

在其他新闻中,我正在努力 红色大衣可能 在圣诞节前完成它。如果我不这样做,它将是一个很好的项目,迎接新年!星期一快乐! X





2016年12月5日,星期一

Studio 54金顶

After 很多 of enjoyable research 和 a 非常 wearable practice run, my 迪斯科-style gold top finally went on its first outing this weekend. 


The event was a friend's 50th birthday party 和 the dress code was Studio 54/disco inferno. There was 很多 of metallic on display 和 a fair few three-piece-suits, so we blended right in. Jon even grew a moustache especially for the occasion! 


从图片中汲取灵感 迪斯科神话般的Farrah Fawcett 我在54号工作室跳舞 Anita系带上衣 from the 缝在老式 book as my starting point. I made a few changes from my practice version, but 不 as many as I'd envisaged. I lowered 和 widened the neckline slightly, lengthened the top 和 straightened the side seams for a more voluminous effect. I ended up keeping the bottom band 那 I'd planned to discard, as it does give the top a nice shape. 


面料是 粘胶箔 来自Ray Stitch。当您按下它时,它会有轻微的粘性,所以我 非常 careful with the iron. Apart from 那 it was surprisingly easy to sew with. The seams are unfinished (the fabric doesn't fray) 和 the neckline is simply turned under 和 top stitched. There's a 小 bit of neckline rippling going on, but I figured the gold blingy-ness would distract the eye! The fabric is reasonably wide (150cms) so I managed to make the entire top from just one metre, yay!

Me 和 my beau, suited 和 booted 和 ready to party….


…和我的生日男孩有点模糊,这让约翰·特拉沃尔塔(John Travolta)的收入有了不错的表现。祝你有美好的一天! 





2016年12月2日,星期五

另一个Rusholme半身裙-配樱桃

第一个版本的高跟鞋是我的第二个Rusholme裙子 初学者's裙子制作指南. 这次我省略了前中央的褶皱,这使它成为更容易缝制的裙子-实际缝制时间仅花了一个小时。


面料是最可爱的樱桃印花针线 玛丽 请从莱斯特市场接我。我喜欢它!因为needlecord倾向于粘在您的紧身衣上,所以我在这个版本上衬上了一些可爱的优质威尼斯内衬, 乔·塞斯 去年我们在金鹰路相遇时。我用了 这种方法 要添加它,只需在剪下时从裙片顶部减去饰面的长度即可。


这是一条完美的冬季小裙子,我知道我会穿很多。由于樱桃的背景色是海军色,因此可以匹配所有东西。

强制动手书籍封面拍摄!

Next up....my gold 迪斯科 top! I'll be road testing it tomorrow 和 will report back on Monday. I'm hoping it will perform well on the dance floor (ahem!) Have a good weekend. x



2016年11月28日,星期一

升级办公椅

今天让我们谈谈办公椅吧?办公椅不是最时尚的家用家具,但是对于很多人来说,如果您在家工作,它们是必不可少的。我们非常需要阁楼的第二把椅子,但没有钱可以花在一个时髦的老式椅子上。因此,当我的丈夫看到一个无聊的外观但非常好的椅子准备扔掉上班时,他就把它拿了。


With its regulation bright blue nylon 内饰 it wasn't the sexiest office 椅子 on the block, but it was really comfortable 和 I knew 那 if I could spruce it up with some new fabric it would fit in perfectly. There are quite a lot of online tutorials or videos showing you how to re-cover office 椅子s, so it was actually a pretty straight forward project. This is how I did mine...

First of all, you'll need to separate the back rest 和 seat cushion from the frame of the 椅子. There are 很多 of different sorts of office 椅子s, but generally the two cushioned 部分s are simply screwed onto the frame. Remove the screws 和 detach the cushions. The cushions will each have a plastic backing which also need to be removed. Some plastic backings simply pop off, but ours needed prising off with a screwdriver!
靠背拆下塑料背衬

垫套用松紧带固定到位,所以我要做的就是将织物粘在松紧的边缘上。我认为我们很幸运,因为大多数办公椅的钉书钉都将织物固定在坐垫上。现在为乐趣!

Place your cushion face down on the wrong side of your chosen fabric, add about a two inch margin all round 和 roughly cut around the outline. If in doubt leave a wider margin - you don't want to find your fabric is too short!


Fold the fabric firmly around the cushion 和 pin into position, starting 在 the top middle, then the bottom, leaving the corners until last.


For the corners you'll need to pleat the fabric 在 the back to ease it round the curves. Keep pulling the fabric taut 和 checking 那 the right side of the cushion is smooth.



将织物固定在现有的垫子上(或者在此阶段可以装订,这似乎是大多数教程所建议的)。


Fold the raw edges of the fabric under the elasticated cushion edge 和 tack in place through both layers.



如果在此阶段您意识到织物的某些部分不够长,无法折叠到边缘(例如我的情况!),不要失望!塑料背衬将其覆盖。


Replace the plastic backing. Now do exactly the same for the seat cushion 和 re-attach both cushions to the 椅子 frame.


You now have a gorgeous new office 椅子! I recommend sitting on it 和 whizzing round the room in triumph.

我用的面料很可爱 复古印花树皮 from Maud's Fabric Finds, which was the perfect weight for this project. I bought half a metre 和 there was more than enough to cover both cushion pads. I even have some scraps left over to make a few purses 和 make-up bags. Yay! Once the cushion backings were prised off, each cushion took me about an hour to complete. So it turned out to be a relatively cheap AND quick project. Definitely cheaper than buying a fancy new 椅子 anyway! x

指出不同!





2016年11月20日,星期日

准备一件红色外套

Over the past few weeks I've been slowly gathering supplies for a winter 涂层, which I'm pretty excited about. I already have a gorgeous navy winter 涂层 from Jaeger which I saved up for - I've worn it every winter for about five years 和 it's still going strong, but I fancy a change. I'd like a 红色大衣, partly because I don't own one 和 I'd like to remedy 那, but also because I need a 涂层 to match my 新的红色手套。只是开个玩笑! (还是我?…)


当我寻找灵感时,我确实发现了一些固定在我身上的非常迷人的红色外套 红板 在Pinterest上,但它们都是非常庞大的形状,这使我的小巧身材显得相形见.。 



我所追求的是一件经典的领型修身外套,有点像这件Modcloth外套的长版。



我发现在 麦考尔7058。这种图案的前盖非常丑陋,可以很好地掩盖经典,精心绘制的图案。 
There are plenty of options all based around the same princess-seamed shape: a short, Chanel-style collarless jacket, two hip length jackets (one belted, one hooded), two mid length 涂层s 和 a long hooded 涂层 (phew). I've decided to go for a mash up of views B 和 C.


Manju制作了非常时尚的衬里羊毛版本 这里 和 I've taken some great tips from her excellent review. 我的 main 涂层 fabric will be a 羊毛斜纹 涂层ing from Fabric Godmother, which now seems to be sold out unfortunately.


It's a lovely bright red 和 feels 非常 warm. I know Manju also interlined/underlined her version with pyjama flannel for extra warmth 和 I'm still debating whether to do this on mine. What do you think?

我会用这个衬里 暗蓝色钢衬面料 来自Ditto,我认为它与红色形成了很好的对比。 


我也买了一些 高质量的接口 from 英式时装 和 have invested in a 裁缝s clapper 在所有这些接缝上实现专业的表面处理。我准备好了!

I did a tissue fitting 和 the size 14 seems to fit well. The good thing about this pattern is 那 there is a petite sizing option which I've taken full advantage of. Each pattern piece is shortened by a total of two inches: an inch 在 bodice height 和 an inch 在 skirt/knee height, which is a perfect proportion for my build. The sleeves are also shortened 在 two different points without affecting the shape of the elbow dart.

Now I just need to steam shrink my wool fabric 和 pre-wash my 衬垫, then I can start cutting out (eek!) There's no immediate deadline to get this 涂层 完了, so I intend to take my time over it 和 enjoy the process - I'll keep you posted on my progress! x




2016年11月14日,星期一

初学者-博客之旅

当我于2009年首次学习缝制时,我的制衣老师建议我首先掌握制裙的艺术。她的理由是,女性的下半部通常比上半部更容易合身。我徒劳地寻找了一本书,可以教我做到这一点,但没有找到适合自己的专门针对裙子的书。 How I wish A Beginner's裙子制作指南 温迪·沃德(Wendy Ward)当时就在身边!


The book is exactly as described: a comprehensive guide to making skirts with full size paper patterns. Wendy focuses on eight basic skirt shapes: circle, A-line, stretch pencil, wrap, bubble, 裁缝ed pencil, front opening 和 culottes 和 offers three variations for each style. That's a lot of skirts to get your teeth into!



The simplest version of each style is shown made up in denim, which I think is a nice touch as it gives you a good idea of the basic shape before you start getting adventurous! The majority of styles are ones I'd make 和 wear, the only exception being the bubble (or puffball) skirt which I was never a fan of, even as a teenager in the 80's!  

对于每个项目变体,都有分步说明和清晰的图表,以及插入拉链,连接腰带,添加衬里等基本方法,所有这些都包含在出色的产品中。 技巧 这本书后面的部分。


这部分是 庞大的 和 it really does cover everything you need to know, 不 just about skirt making but about sewing in general - it's almost a sewing book in its own right! The techniques required for each project are listed 在 the beginning of each skirt 'type' 和 it's definitely worth reading through them beforehand so you have an idea of what you'll be doing. You'll still have to flick between different parts of the book to look them up, especially if you're a beginner, but 在 least you'll be prepared. 



在进行准备工作时,我还建议您阅读 使用纸样 部分 非常小心 before you start. I dived straight in 和 consequently tripped up a couple of times. Firstly, the pattern piece for the skirt I made (the Rusholme) is printed in two halves (top half 和 bottom half) on two different pattern sheets, which flummoxed me a little. Secondly, some pattern pieces, such as waistbands 和 facings, are used for 一个以上的项目. I was looking in vain for ages for a facing for the Rusholme裙子 before I re-read the instructions 和 realised I had to use the pattern pieces for the Fallowfield skirt!

Once you've located your pieces you'll need to trace them from the three large pattern sheets, as the sheets are printed on both sides 和 the patterns overlap. I have to admit, a Burda-style pattern road map is 不 my favourite way to work, but having said 那, once I'd worked out a few basics (see paragraph above!), it didn't actually take long to trace them off.


The skirts in the book are printed in order of difficulty 和 the Rusholme A字裙 I chose is somewhere in the middle. The skirt is shown with three variations: short with a waist facing, knee-length with waistband 和 centre front pleat or long with pockets 和 waistband.

In the spirit of the book I chose to mix 和 match between variations, making a short skirt with a waist facing but also including a centre front pleat. The book actually advises to use a facing with the pleated version (and I can see why as there is more fabric in the pleat to be supported) but I decided to be a rebel 和 throw caution to the wind.


尺码取决于您的臀部尺寸,范围从34¾英寸(88厘米)至51英寸(129厘米)。这相当于英国的8-26尺寸或美国的4-22尺寸。我裁掉了38英寸的臀部,但由于腰围太紧,所以在腰部将其分级为下一个尺寸。我还使用最小尺寸的长度来节省必须缩短图案的时间。这些是我对图案进行的唯一更改,因为只有两个裙摆件和两个面对件,所以缝制时间很短。

我使用的面料是细羊毛西装(牛仔布中的静音网格) from Fabworks, who kindly supplied the fabrics for this blog tour. It's a reasonably lightweight fabric with a good drape 和 the ability to hold a sharp crease, which was exactly what I was after. It does fray quite 不iceably if handled too much, but apart from 那 it was a pleasure to work with.


成品裙子就像手套一样适合我:腰部的舒适度非常好(我很高兴自己穿上了尺码!),但形状仍然不错。我也喜欢倒褶的宽敞感,几乎就像我穿着一双裙裤一样。至于非法的褶皱/褶皱组合,我很高兴地报告,到目前为止,它还没有引起任何问题,这可能是因为我的布料不太重。

初学者's裙子制作指南 is an excellent introduction to skirt making, 不 just for beginners but for more experienced sewers too. As Wendy says 在 the start of the book, "The devil is in the detail 和 I'll show you how to perfect those details…I'm a stickler for doing things right 和 taking the time needed to get the best results" I'm definitely pleased with the results - so much so 那 I've already cut out a second skirt!




初学者's裙子制作指南 was given to me for review by CICO Books 和 the fabric was supplied by Fabworks. All views my own.




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